Lyndsey’s Strange But True Sightings:
1) I ate spicy rabbit head. Well, half a head. The restaurant was nice and served it in halves, making it easier to eat. I’ll let you feast on the mental image of me gnawing on half of a cooked rabbit skull. Yummy.
2) The Chinese writing system is fascinating, and more often than not the actual translations of words are extremely fitting. I love looking up every single character in a word since usually the meaning and translation is priceless. I’ll list some of my personal favorites for you to read and enjoy:
1.。外星人 (Waixingren) – Alien, or literally “outside star person”
2。爆米花 (Baomihua) – Popcorn, or literally “exploding corn flower”
3。龙卷风 (Longjuanfeng) – Tornado, or literally “dragon spiral wind”
4。万圣节 (Wanshengjie) – Halloween, or literally “1,000 souls day”
5。海盗 (Haidao) – Pirate, or literally “sea thief"
Let’s play the catch up game…
After returning from Harbin, we had a full 24 hours before we would have to return to campus and help with Orientation. So, after settling in our hostel again, Caitlin, Lenore, and I decided to go to one last temple fair. We decided to go to Ditian Temple, the Temple of Earth, which is known for having the largest temple fair in Beijing. Unfortunately, since the New Year’s season was starting to wind down, we went on the last day it was open. The temple was PACKED, to say the least. Disneyland at the peak of its tourist season doesn’t even compare. I don’t think I’ve ever seen such a dense crowd before, and for that reason none of us stayed too long at the fair. However, we did go, shove our way around, and explore a bit. Just like a typical fair, there were games you could play (ring toss, bean-bag throwing, etc.) and prizes you could win. Red lanterns and banners hung from every imaginable place and stalls selling art, trinkets, jewelry, and knick-knacks lined all of the walkways. It was fun to see all of the people crowded around, carrying pinwheels and balloon animals and wearing ostentatious hats that they had bought on the street especially for the occasion. There were some small shows to gather around and watch, too. There were musicians playing folk music, traditional dances, and Peking opera singers scattered around the park. The fair food was also extremely interesting. Every imaginable traditional food was sold – kabobs, porridges, dumplings, soups, noodles, and rice were dished out in a hurry. There was also fried ice cream, “smoking “ tea – big glasses of tea with pieces of dry ice inside that made the whole thing bubble and steam like crazy – and even oddities like scorpions, starfish, seahorse, silkworms, and cicada. Before you ask, no, I did not eat any. I’m all for strange foods, but I think it’s silly to eat something that the natives themselves don’t eat. That’s right, the Chinese really don’t eat that stuff. They consider it an oddity, just like we do, and will munch on it to prove their bravado or just for kicks. Well, like I said, after a while the crowds proved to be too much for us, so we made our exit and retreated to more open spaces.
Since we were back in Beijing early and were full-year students, we agreed to help IES with the new students that would arrive for Orientation week. Our job would be to assist in activities, act as a guide and resource for them to use, help them get used to Beijing and the transportation system, and aid the staff in preparing for the new semester. I thought it would be fun to help out and get to know my new classmates early. Plus, as an orientation counselor, I got first picks on everything – classes, vacation trips, etc. Anything I want for the rest of the school year I’m going to get. Plus, it let me get a lot of free meals and a free, spiffy-looking sweatshirt :). Hey, I’m a college student. “Mooching” is my middle name.
I remember my own Orientation was extremely busy, I was always running from one meeting to another. However, as a counselor I didn’t have to go to those meetings again, meaning I actually had much more free time than I initially expected. Besides doing the basics – giving the campus tour, taking them shopping for supplies, showing them where all the restaurants are, etc. – there were a couple of large activities I was in charge of organizing and managing. First of all, there is a very large activity called Mystery Beijing. Those of you who read the blog last semester will remember me describing this huge Beijing-wide scavenger hunt. This semester I helped man one of the stations. I was posted on the Silver Bridge in an area called Houhai, a lake not too far away from the Forbidden City. Students had to follow clues that would lead to my location, find me, perform a small task of my design (I made them successfully order dumplings from a nearby stand), and then, after successful completion of the dumpling buying, receive the next clue. It was fun watching them race all over, but unlike last semester, the weather was cold. I nearly froze and had to periodically seek shelter in a nearby café. The second major task was to design a short excursion for students to go on. Two other counselors and I organized a trip to return to Badachu, the Buddhist temple complex I went to last semester. It was such an awesome experience that I wanted new students to get to experience it, especially since it’s not a well-known place and they probably wouldn’t find it on their own. We all had a great time exploring, and I loved seeing some of the temples I didn’t get to visit last time. The facilities are old but beautiful – big porcelain jars full of swimming carp, long, sleeping Buddhas, large painted statues of the North, South, East, and West gods, red, wooden placards inscribed with prayers dangling off of trees…it’s all very beautiful. I also went with students to go to a Chinese acrobatics show and took them to go see the 798 art district (mad shopping on my part ensued). Finally, I got to see the new homestay students off and let them greet their own families. I saw my old homestay family again and introduced them to their new student, Molly. It was good to see them again, and they even took me to have dinner with them at a fantastic Sichuan restaurant. However, my time in a homestay is definitely done and I’m glad to have more independence with my dorm life.
Unfortunately, I couldn’t move in with my Chinese roommate right way and had to temporarily room with one of the new students, Sarah. Let’s just say I am sooooo glad to no longer be rooming with her. Oh, Sarah, let me count the ways in which I hated being your roommate and why I still wish to strangle you:
1. She never goes out. Ever. She eats dinner in her room and makes it herself. That means there is never any personal time where I can just sit and be alone or take a nap.
2. She is always talking to her boyfriend on Skype (a computer-to-computer telephone system), and I literally mean ALWAYS. If she doesn’t talk to him, he accuses her of cheating, which is always fun to overhear in the room: “Baby you’re going to leeeeeeeeave me…” “I miss you sooooo much….” “Baby you know I love you so why do you say that….?” Barf, barf, and more barf. Believe me, it took a lot of willpower not to smash her laptop.
3. She went to bed ridiculously early, like around 8:30 or 9:00. My usual bedtime is 2:00 AM and at 8:30 I still have tons of homework to do. Since she was asleep, that meant I had to be evicted from my room, which is my typical workspace, and lost easy access to things like my dictionaries, reference books, pencils and pens, paper, etc. Talk about a pain in the ass.
4. She wakes up ridiculously early to – you guessed it – talk to her boyfriend. One time she turned on the lights at 6:30 AM. I almost turned into the Incredible Hulk for that one, but settled for verbally ripping her apart instead of physically. She got off lucky.
5. I believe she is slightly racist. The one time she went out to eat she went to either a Hui Muslim or Uygur (both ethnic minorities in China) restaurant. She later said the whole experience was very strange because “they were Muslim” and therefore didn’t like her because she was an American. She didn’t say much more after that, probably because the look of disgust on my face told her to stop right there.
Thankfully, that period is done and over with and I am now with my Chinese roommate, who I love to pieces. There’s not enough space in this blog entry to talk about her, so I’ll save that for next time. However, I’ve vowed to adopt the Chinese student that has the misfortune to be Sarah’s roommate once she arrives.
And now for something humorous: During one of our especially free days at Orientation, two other counselors, Lenore and Rachel, and I decided to go to a massage parlor for cupping. Get your mind out of the gutter, it’s not what you think. In Chinese it’s called 拔火罐 (bahuoguan). First, a flame is placed inside a glass jar to burn all of the oxygen away and create a vacuum. Then, that glass jar, which is not hot, by the way, is placed on your back and is sucked onto your skin. Usually it leaves a very large, circular, hickey-like bruise. The point is to concentrate the blood in certain areas, which thus changes your circulation and qi flow. Overall the practice is very “Chinese” and we decided it was worth a try. Once we arrived at the parlor, we saw two options: cupping and movable cupping. Last semester my friend Hali said that when she got cupping done, they massaged her back at the same time. We concluded that must be what movable cupping must be, since, you know, when you are massaged things are “moved.” We were so wrong. Instead of getting a lovely massage, the “moving” part consisted of something entirely different. Rather than letting the glass jars stay stationary on one small area, which is relatively painless, they are instead raked across your entire back again and again, which is far from pleasant. In fact, it was damn painful. Every blood vessel in the jar’s path was broken, turning my entire back into a giant bruise. It caused poor Lenore to actually start bleeding in a couple of areas. At the end of it all, it looked as if I’d lain down in the middle of a road and then been thoroughly run over by a car. I recommend that you all go to my Facebook and see the photos of the event. As a result of the bruising, I couldn’t move my shoulder blades together for days. Putting my coat on by myself became impossible, as was leaning against any surface. Not a fun time. So note to all of my readers: cupping is a rather interesting and worthwhile cultural experience that you should by all means try. Movable cupping, on the other hand, is a form of torture that should be avoided at all costs. Just say no.
During Orientation my overall impression of the new students was a good one. They are very adventurous, excited, but nervous, to be here, and not very cliquey at all. I’ve never seen such a large group of students that refuses to faction, instead remaining as one, solid unit. However, there are two cliques that have formed though, which I didn’t expect. One group is the new students, the other the old students. For the new students, Beijing is a big, exciting, foreign place to be. They’re full of energy and a “have to do it all, have to see it all” attitude, one which I certainly had last semester. However, when I look at them running around at 100 mph., I get exhausted. As a friend of mine explained, my “honeymoon period” with Beijing is over. I’ve been to all of the major cites; I’ve seen all of the famous spots. Going to those places again holds no appeal to me, and so it’s hard for us full-year students to associate with the new ones. We watch their slightly naïve, energetic behavior with well-seasoned eyes and find ourselves saying things like, “Back in the day…” or, “I remember…” It makes me seem old. I feel old. In fact, the new students are extremely surprised when they find out my actual age and realize I am, in fact, younger than most of them. I’ve become the quiet guru, the magic eight ball that’s occasionally pulled out, shaken for advice, and then put back on the shelf. And I’m fine with that. I’ve made several new friends, but mostly us odies stick together. Our goal is to settle into Beijing, to make it a second home rather than a tourist destination. So far, that’s what we’ve been going. Rather than following the pack and swarming to the Temple of Heaven or Tiananmen Square, we go to the quiet bar across the way to hear a local band, or maybe I’ll go to a small art festival in 798. It’s an interesting life to have.
Well, obviously Orientation is over and classes have begun. I still have my Chinese class, although this semester I’m in the 300 level. It’s hard to believe I just started Chinese this past summer, isn’t it? Class is far more rigorous this semester than last semester. Chinese is now four hours a day as opposed to three, and every night I have to memorize 60-80 new words, which will be tested the following day during a quiz. Every day is a new lesson with 8-10 new sentence structures, so needless to say things are far more fast-paced. I lucked out and got great teachers, though, and there’s a fantastic group of students in my class. Besides Chinese, I also am taking a 20th century history course. I loved the 19th century course I took last semester so much that I decided to just keep on going. It’s the same teacher, too, which is fantastic. Jeremiah is by far the best history teacher I’ve ever had. I’m really excited for this class, mostly because Chinese 20th century history is one of the most over-dramatized and misunderstood periods of the country’s history. Whenever I ask a question regarding Mao Zedong, the CCP, the Cultural Revolution, etc. I always get either a politically biased or a misinformed answer, or sometimes just a blank confused stare. Maybe my questions will finally be answered. My third class is a Chinese film studies course, which meets just once a week for three hours. Unlike my history class, the film class is all in Chinese. It’s extremely difficult, and by the end of course my brain is shot. I’m unfamiliar with film terminology even in English, not to mention in Chinese, and unfortunately most dictionaries aren’t technical enough to have film terms anyway. So, we all have to figure out new words as we go along using context and the teacher’s illustrations. For example, all on my own I had to realize what the terms for various camera angles and focuses were and the translation of words such as “scene change,” “camera shot,” “montage,” and “silver screen.” Very, very difficult, even more so when I learn a Chinese word and understand it’s meaning, but I don’t know an exact English word that has the same sense or translation.
If I manage to squeeze one more post in before Wednesday, I’ll talk more about my roommate and class schedule. If not, know that I’ll be gone for about ten days and will not have internet access. Wednesday I leave to go on the program’s long vacation (the equivalent of last semester’s Silk Road trip) and will be heading to Yunan, the southern part of China. I’ll get to travel very close to Tibet, even having a four-day Tibetan homestay experience and the ability to celebrate Tibetan New Years. I’m extremely excited to go, and will be sure to let you know all about it! Stay tuned!